Yellowstone Park
So you want to visit the Parks up here? I’m a lifelong Montanan and haven’t seen it all. I probably won’t live long enough now. The first director only got to visit there 4 times during his life.
When looking at Facebook I found that Yellowstone Park seems to be one of the top destinations for almost everyone. Yet when I’m reading through the posts and comment advice it becomes clear to me that, from my life perspectives, there is a lot of bad mis-information being provided, even by people who are there right this moment from their individual perspectives and observations.
Yellowstone in the 1950s had no protective fencing or walkways for tourists, but then people were familiar with being outside in nature more than now too.
Yellowstone Park was declared a preservation area because of the unique geological conditions found there.
The Washburn Langford Doane Expedition recorded by N. Langford took place in 1870. It was a several week trip from Helena through Bozeman where a US Cavalry Troop under command of Gen Washburn was attached to provide the explorers with protection from known hostile Indians they might encounter during their journey! This was the first time so-called civilized white men recorded the wonders in the park, then the top newspapers in New York and Washington DC labeled the report as a hoax. Previously aging trappers from the fur trade era were thought to be making up tall tales! Imagine great pools that could dissolve any creature unlucky to fall in after mere seconds, or water suddenly shooting up hundreds of feet in the air? Balderdash from too much whiskey and imagination?
The area around Yellowstone Lake, the Canyon , and the Lamar Valley however were prime hunting grounds for several warring Indian Tribes, the Goat Eaters branch of Idaho Indians had permanent hunting ground and lived in that area too. The Indians were aware of the geothermal features but considered those medicine ground as documented from the time.
It took Langford until 1972 to finally obtain the Park Designation for protection and he became the first National Park Supervisor, appointed by the Interior Secretary under U.S. Grant.
According to the Park History Center it wasn’t until the third Park Supervisor that automobile roads and concessions for visitors became a part of the management plan. These roads follow the original expedition trail routes from the 1870 and later 72 expeditions. There is plenty more information found at the interpretive centers, my favorite is at the East Gate at Gardiner Montana. It was the original rail road stop and location of the Gateway Arch. There’s another at West Yellowstone including a surround sound movie. My opinion being you’re here already. So why pay to watch a movie about it?
The big preconception needing forgetting is the OCD Planned Itinerary right to the minute! Well folks, sadly in Yellowstone Park this won’t happen! You need to first know where you’re going and what your seeking to do and see?
Trying to stay on a schedule in the park is both redundant and stressful. Just let it evolve.
First it’s a rare geothermal area. That’s the primary reason it is a National Park. The geyser basins are surprisingly small. About 5 miles total walking; 10,000 to 14,000 steps in all. Given the million or so visitors it can become crowded.
Animals:
Buffalo, bear, and elk are big animals. Animals are all over the Park. They tend to like using those easy automobile routes to get around more difficult terrain. No matter what the seasonal employees tell you the animals have the right of way and if they don’t budge you don’t. They also do not wait or pose for your photos either. Keep in mind YNP is probably one of the most over photographed places in the world.
By the way, as a National Park; photography is permitted and no special fee or licenses is required unless you have over 8 people in your group and it interferes with other visitors. Otherwise take photos, save them as souvenirs or try to sell your best ones.
No drones are allowed inside the Parks not even aircraft!
Don’t discount guided tours Park guides are concessionaires and many shoot wildlife images and spectacular lighting on scenic areas. Selling those on the side is a part of their livelihood so they will stop and get out with you for wildlife or to capture those really nice sunsets will search for an ideal setting.
I have a friend who raises bison on his ranch near Marysville, MT. Bison usually won’t bother anyone on horseback or inside the vehicle. So I’d think a person on a motorcycle would be ok unless they get dumped. A person outside walking where bison are is gambling with their own life. Nobody on that ranch is allowed inside a corral with bison in it. Bison tend to be plain mean.
Brown Bear are more docile and generally just want to be left alone, but panicked or with cubs, they can get aggressive. Grizzly are noted as having attacked the Lewis and Clark Scouting Expedition near present day Great Falls, and getting the Latin Name: Ursis Horriblus
Elk, like so many tourists just don’t yield. You need to step out of their way and stay calm.
On one day trip down to Yellowstone and back I think we saw nearly every species of animals except wolverines, but we were lucky that day.
My advice is if you are hikers and plan on seeing back country. Hire a guide. This is assuming you are urban dwellers. Most visitors of neighborhoods as ones that are dangerous and relatively safe ones. It’s the same only with wild animals. They live within their own ecosystem which the guides know and how to react there.
Finally do not let your guard down in the Park. Yes you pay to get in and pay more to the concessions but there really isn’t a police force inside the Park, other than armed rangers. It isn’t really dangerous but you should not wander out alone. There is petty theft from unlocked vehicles around attractions or wildlife. So just be aware of this, sadly just like anyplace else.
Geothermal sites
When I learned about the Park I was in grade school and down there every June the week after school was out. When planning this is something to consider. Spring is ideal until schools get out and families begin vacationing.
Most of the Thermal activity is found from Norris Basin to Hayden or the lower West loop up to Yellowstone Lake. There are isolated geysers and the mud pots are about halfway up the East loop.
Speaking of geothermal, for the past few decades fear mongering university professors have reassessed the Yellowstone Basin as a super big volcano about to erupt at any time? Early on when I learned it, I was taught the region is unique because it is a thin spot in the earth’s crust. There are two others; in New Zealand and another in Iceland. Both also have thermal features although in those places the heat is being used for energy generation and much of the natural wonder is said to have been lost.
Last year I saw a documentary in which the original theory was now being reasserted as the sole source of geothermal activity in the park basins. However the Park is micro managed by the Bureau of the Interior from over a thousand miles away in Washington DC. So change happens very slowly even when proven false. Craters of the moon which is over in Idaho by about 300 miles is actually the result of a super volcano eruption thousands of years ago.
Getting around:
Visitors and employees need to get a clear perspective about size and adjust their perspective accordingly. It’s about 2 hours from the nw gate at Gardner Mt to the sw gate at Jackson Wy given the posted speed limit of 45 minutes! Not counting delays from animals, accidents, and other visitors. It’s about the same time as commuting in any city on posted 35mph streets with traffic lights. Mobility impaired visitors might consider renting a motorized chair with the ez load bumper hitch mount?
We are creatures of habit, most people start off between 7-9 am and go indoors or settle closer to 6-7 pm you can expect traffic jams on that time schedule. The park is no different!
A little consideration goes a long way inside the Park. This observation more directed to us locals who are as bored with trees and mountains and annoyed by wildlife as most visitors must be with commuting from traffic lights to traffic light through canyons of tall buildings and being annoyed by drugged up homeless people wandering out into traffic?
Locals and repeat visitors need to realize for many visitors this is their one and only Yellowstone Experience! They are out of their comfort zone. They feel lost or are looking around trying not to miss or drive past anything. No different than when I’m looking for a specific business in the big city and only have a general idea where it is.
Do not tailgate. Just mellow out, chill, whatever. Stay in posted speed limits and in control. There’s as much or more room to get around as in any big city neighborhood but only if somebody pulls as far right as possible, and you can take advantage of those gaps inbetween oncoming cars to get around. Otherwise, what’s 15 minutes longer for 75 miles? The only ones who get messed up are not those only the park visitors, rather there are those following mindless Google GPS and were directed through the park instead of on the faster routes between Wyoming and Central Montana around the park, but taking more miles. They should be on I-15 to Butte or US 20 thru Rexford where they’ll save hours on the longer route due to speed limits alone.
Tourists need to realize that those major North South and East West central road are the faster distance on their commute between West Yellowstone and Jackson. The skiers know that going through Rexberg Idaho or down I-15 and across is much faster! In winter though most of the park is snowpacked and only open to snow coaches and snowmobiles anyway.